Updated 28 Dec 04
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Our cruising in 2003 was never going to have quite the thrill of our 2002 Atlantic crossing but I did want to do something that was at least a bit different if possible. It had been many years since I sailed in the Solent (in the south of England) where I used to have a mooring for my previous yachts and where I sailed so often in the yachts of the Armed Services. I had a hankering to go down there and have a look around again to see what had changed. I also have a brother and a daughter and three grandchildren in the area as well as many friends, and Ann’s son Christopher with his family is in that general area too. Also it would mostly a new cruising ground for Ann. So that was our destination decided – and of course we could go on to northern France as well while we were down that way. I hoped that a long held minor ambition might be achieved on the way by sailing under the two motorway bridges that cross the River Severn. An almost logical extension was a decision to leave the boat in St Katharine’s Haven in London for this winter. So that was the plan… Ha! Faustina II is a Bowman 40 – and we love her. She’s sturdy, comfortable, sea kindly and she sails pretty well to windward, despite having only a 1.5m draught, and the lead sheel keel keeps her pretty stiff. She was well equipped for the round-Atlantic trip and so probably rather over-equipped for shorter voyages in UK waters.
We had planned to leave on 19 May but that date soon went adrift. We had the builders in at home! What started as a relatively minor job to provide a revamped bathroom became an almost complete rewiring job (all the upstairs floorboards up), the front of the house and the stables re-rendered, 5 new chimney stacks and much much more – not to mention redecorating. Our departure date kept slipping and it was not until 29 June that two harassed people finally boarded Faustina II at Portaferry ready for the off. We had dinner at the Portaferry SC (highly recommended) ready to leave next day. And leave we did, at 0645, into an ENE 5. It was very unpleasant out in the Irish Sea and after a nasty hour or so we decided that if this was fun, it wasn’t for us. We turned back and went to anchor in Audley’s Road near Strangford. Much better, and another day for ‘post-builder’ relaxation.
We got away again next day. We had intended to visit the Isle of Man en route to meet friends but the wind was kinder and the sea was calmer and so we made straight for Puffin Island at the north end of the Menai Straits, about 85 miles away. The Menai Straits separate the island of Anglesey from the mainland of NW Wales. We arrived at 2100 and an hour or so later we anchored off Beaumaris. Next day we launched Buttercup, our RIB, and went into Beaumaris to get supplies and to explore but we had to get back to the boat by 1200 in order to get through the Swellies at slack HW. The Swellies are notoriously dangerous rocks with fast water moving past them in narrow channels. They are crossed by two bridges. The first is Telford’s graceful Menai suspension bridge built in 1826 and the second is the Britannia rail/road arch bridge that replaced Stephenson’s original tubular bridge after it was destroyed by fire in 1970. At slack HW the passage is easy enough and we passed safely through, despite my total failure to see the leading marks under the Britannia Bridge that Ann could see and was entreating me to observe! Anyway, that was the first two of the seven bridges on this voyage safely behind us. We anchored for lunch a mile or so away, near a monument to Admiral Nelson. Later we took Buttercup (with its 15hp engine) back under the bridges while the tide was in full ebb and saw just how fast the tidal stream is through there. Awesome!
After an afternoon relaxing in the sun surrounded by the wonderful pastoral scenery we motored southwards towards Caernarfon and found a strong looking mooring for the night about a mile from the town. TG we had the mooring – the tide flowed loudly past us at such speed during the night that I doubt I would have trusted the anchor. At 0600 next day we used the last of the ebb to sail past Caernarfon Castle (where the Princes of Wales are crowned) and out of the Straits but we then anchored until 1030 to await a sufficient rise of tide to get us over the bar which is a couple of miles off shore. We then set off for Abersoch on an indifferent day, passing thro’ Bardsey Island Sound and inside Tudwal Island. At Abersoch we anchored, but idleness allowed us to feel no impulse to launch Buttercup and go ashore. Next morning we were away at 0400 (ugh!) to use the tide and with all plain sail and the engine turning over gently we made our way across Cardigan Bay off the coast of Wales, outside the Bishops and Clerks Islands (as the tide was wrong for the inside passage), between Skomer and Stokholm Islands and into the huge natural harbour of Milford Haven where we anchored in Dale Bay by 1700. I like Dale – it’s easy to get to and well protected in any weather and these days they even have a large pontoon anchored offshore for visitors to moor alongside. Very civilised. Next day we had a ‘day off’ and confined our activities to a very pleasant motor, passing the oil terminals of Milford Haven and under the 1975 Neyland Road Bridge (bridge number 3) and on up the River Cleddau for several miles until the water became a bit too shallow for us. It’s a beautiful river with a mixture of woods and meadows along the shore. Astonishingly we were stopped en route by police in a launch who, having seen that we came from Belfast, turned around to come after us, sent two officers on board who did a cursory inspection and required us to complete pink forms with our details. They claimed that anti-terrorist laws allowed them to do this when ‘a border within the UK’ is crossed. I asked them how many cars crossing the Severn Bridges between England and Wales were stopped for this purpose! They were very pleasant – and, we guessed, bored too. We returned to Dale for the night where we had to decide, should we go up the River Severn estuary to Gloucester (our original plan), or go straight across the Bristol Channel to Devon. The Severn won and so early next morning we set off towards Swansea in south Wales and locked in to spend the night in the splendid new marina there, doing our laundry and going to the cinema. Then on up the Severn, now having to take note of the very consideable sand banks, to the marina at Penarth which serves Cardiff (the capital of Wales) – again new and excellent, and entered via a huge lock into the barrage.
Friends came with their two children to visit and we took them for a sail for a mile or so across the barrage water to Cardiff where we had a Chinese dinner near to where the new opera house was being constructed. Next day, 8 July, we sailed up-river in moderate visibility to pass under the Severn bridges, en route to the Sharpness canal and Gloucester. This was a 'high activity' day for us. We contacted the Sharpness canal people who advised that arriving an hour before HW at the their lock would be ideal. Their HW is an hour after HW at the bridges, and it takes about an hour to travel from the bridges to the lock. I compromised and aimed to reach the bridges at HW-1½ (the bridge). I had been using a chart plotter until now (what a Godsend and how lazy they make you!) but I had no computer chart beyond the first bridge and I was back to the paper chart with GPS, eyeball and HB compass.
We reached Sharpness by late lunchtime and were told that the lock would be opened for us at 1515. Our Narrow Boat friends were coming through too – they had booked a pilot to take them downstream to Portishead, our destination that day. We all locked out but the Narrow Boats didn’t leave, as the forecast wind of 20 kts against the tide was deemed unsafe for them. We had an uneventful trip downstream, although it was quite rough near the bridges. We made good speed with the gathering ebb under us and we reached and locked into the new marina at Portishead at 1945. Next day was my birthday (I seem to have one in every log I write!) and several telephone messages came in. We found the mobile phone endlessly useful and comforting and were very rarely out of signal range. We also used the Internet facilities found in all libraries (usually free), and we did so again here in Portishead. There is an excellent Waitrose Supermarket near the marina and they agreed to deliver our supplies – a service that they hadn’t properly started at that time but intended to provide soon. We were happy to be a test case. We locked out after lunch with four Narrow Boats, including our two friends who had arrived in the early morning, and motored the two miles up the Severn to the entrance of the River Avon. They had left the lock before us but we overtook them quite soon and led the way up the Avon towards Bristol.
The tide began to help us and at 1100, in murky visibility, we passed the Wra rock and around Land’s End passing inside the Longships LH rocks. Once around and heading east past the Runnel Stone the tide was against us, but by the time we had reached the Lizard it had turned and we made good progress past Black Head and then north past the Manacles and into the Helford River, where we took a mooring at 1840. The forecast next day was for heavy rain and W5-7. We decided to stay for the day. After a quiet morning on board we launched Buttercup and she took us to some NT gardens that Ann wanted to see and then to Helford where we had a short walk. We had oggies (Cornish Pasties) for supper – really good! Next morning we went the few miles round to Falmouth and moored in the town visitors’ marina, which is not expensive and is close to the town and to the new National Maritime Museum that we wanted to visit. After doing our laundry next day we went to the museum. We both found it rather a disappointment. It contains a number of well-known small boats and dinghies and some interesting displays but overall it is a fine building with not enough in it to make a visit really satisfying – we thought. In the marina we were delighted to meet John and Rosie C...... cruising to the Scillies in Tresillian IV. We went on to Fowey next day and that evening met Derek and Gilly M....... and some friends ashore in their rented holiday house. Then next day (Sun 20 Jul) we went on to Dartmouth with a brisk S6 pushing us along with two reefs in the Main. We rounded Start Point and went close inshore where we anchored for a short lunch break before passing along the Bee Sands etc and entering Dartmouth. We were offered a berth alongside a pontoon in midstream that did us very well. I had previously convinced myself that mooring in Dartmouth was expensive but I was wrong. The charges were modest and the staff very helpful. On the following day, having given the boat a good cleaning, we took Buttercup up the River Dart to Totnes where we had a good lunch in sunshine at the ‘Steam Packet Inn’. It’s a lovely run of about 5 or 6 miles through varied scenery and our RIB provided the ideal conveyance. In fact we went on beyond Totnes for a mile or more until we came to a weir – and went aground! That evening we met Brian S.... (brother of the late Billy S...., well known to many Irish sailors) who brought a pile of charts that we had agreed to return to NI. He kindly took us to his home at Stoke Gabriel where we were given dinner by Anne his wife. Next morning we took the steam train from Kingswear (opposite Dartmouth) to Paignton where we met Brian again. We had lunch at the Steam Packet Inn in Totnes again (well the food was good!) and then went on to Dartington House where we met Anne. Briefly, Dartington House is a privately set up artistic inspirational and educational establishment. The house is old and the grounds are superb. We looked around both for a couple of hours in glorious sunshine before we were returned to Paignton to catch the steam train back to Kingswear and the boat. I will gloss over the next few weeks. They were spent in and around the Solent and Chichester harbour. We met relations and friends and I explored and revisited many old haunts such as Beaulieu River, Newtown Creek, Bembridge, Porchester Castle and so on and so on. The weather was good and we enjoyed it all. The only down side is that the area is coming down with boats. The numbers are truly staggering to those of us more used to Irish waters. TG that they don’t all come out of the marinas at the same time – if they did one could probably walk across the Solent from deck to deck. Cowes Week was on while we were there and we went up the River Medina to see where all the boats went at night! When we needed a marina we used the very good Haslar Marina just inside Portsmouth harbour entrance but whenever possible, as is our usual preference, we anchored. The marina cost us £30 per night with power but the anchoring can been done for free in the lower Beaulieu and in Chichester harbour – both lovely places to stop - and for only a few pounds in places like Newtown Creek. Ann’s son, Chris B......, his wife Claire and 3-year old daughter spent a night on board with us in Chichester harbour. Ann and I visited Portsmouth Docks to go over the Victory and to see the Mary Rose. The actual Mary Rose is a disappointment as it is hard to see through very cloudy glass and fine spray but the associated exhibition is excellent. A huge new millennium structure is being built in Portsmouth that will have a spinnaker type of appearance. It already dominates the skyline from many miles away. The whole Solent area provides wonderful sailing at all levels – but there ARE a lot of boats about. Then on Thu 7 Aug we crossed the Channel to Cherbourg. We had actually left Beaulieu for a ‘doddle’ to Newtown Creek but en route I decided that the weather today was likely to be more favourable for our crossing than tomorrow. So we stopped in mid Solent, hauled Buttercup aboard and set off past Hurst Castle and the Needles. The wind was WSW and quite light and I set all plain sail, later adding a bit of engine to keep the speed up. We soon ran into fog but the radar helped to keep out of trouble. We reached Cherbourg in very poor vis at 2045 and anchored just outside the marina (which one can do for free). Having Buttercup we don’t really gain any advantage from a marina provided we could anchor in good shelter. The harbour foghorn continued all night. Next day we did the usual stocking up of wine and other essentials from the huge Carrefour hypermarket nearby. At HW±3 hrs it is possible to take the RIB through the inner harbour very close to the store, which helps greatly get the wine boxes aboard. By chance we met my brother who was in a yacht with friends and that led to a very good dinner at the Café de Paris restaurant. We were surprised to find the locals coming to the end of their meals while we were just starting – and it was only later than we realised that we had not altered our clocks to local time. Next morning we went into the marina to top up the water tanks and then left Cherbourg harbour via the west entrance and made our way in poor vis towards Cap de la Hague. We were doing over 10 kts across the ground with the tide under us. We entered Braye harbour in Alderney at 1300. Lots of mooring buoys have been laid since I was last there and the whole bay is useable. However they were all occupied and we anchored until a buoy became vacant – for which we were charged an outrageous £12! No water, no power and about ½ mile from the landing jetty which itself was hard to get at because of the numbers of inflatables around it. A Customs officer (he had no uniform) gave us a form to complete as we had now left the EU. Later we went ashore and walked up the hill to St Annes and then along to the east to return to the jetty via the long beach to the south of the harbour. It was a lovely sunny day and it was a pretty and interesting walk. We ate on board. Next day (Sun 10 Aug) we went to Sark. This involved going through the Swinge, a much easier exercise with the chart plotter than it was in the old days with a hand-bearing compass. There was no wind and it was still rather misty. En route I went off in Buttercup, leaving Ann on board, to take some photos of the boat. I remembered, fondly from 30 years ago, anchoring in Dixcart Bay on the east coast of Sark in the company of two or maybe three boats. We got there now to find more than 30 boats anchored. The only available alternative was to anchor in the neighbouring and rather more exposed Derrible Bay with only a mere 10 boats for company. How things have changed. That evening we went ashore via Dixcart Bay and found the island’s interior largely unchanged – and as delightful as it ever was. Next morning we went ashore again and hired bicycles. With these we puffed our way around most of the island’s roads and to its extremities. It was sunny but the vis was so poor that no other islands were in sight. A walk around the Seigneur’s garden was well worthwhile, as were the various short walks we did to reach the cliffs.
We arrived an hour too early for lunch at the Dixcart Bay Hotel (guess what? - we were still on French time!) but we sat for a while recalling a visit there years ago with Patrick and Mary K.......... It really is a lovely island. Back on the beach we found Buttercup very far from the water, left there by the receding tide, and we had to get help to get her back to the water. We went for a little ‘explore’ with her around the headland and on our return came across a small yacht that had floated free of her poorly laid anchor and was off on a solo jaunt. We tied alongside her and took her back to Derrible Bay. We re-set her anchor and returned to Faustina. I don’t know whether the French owner ever realised that he was now anchored in a different place and with a lot more rope out. We spent the next day in St Peter Port marina in Guernsey (£16 incl. power) and took on fuel and shopping and had an evening meal ashore. Next day we went to Herm and anchored off the famous Shell Beach. We landed on that with Buttercup but there really aren’t many shells left! The daily sweep by hordes of visitors has taken them all. However later, when the tide had gone down I went exploring around the newly exposed islets (which are extensive in that area) and soon found small beaches that abounded with shells of all sorts. I returnedf to Faustina II and collected Ann who spent an hour or more happily beachcombing for shells, and she found some real beauties. The rising tide forced us off in the end and we returned to the boat. Incidentally this was yet another occasion when we were grateful for the 15hp outboard – the tide stream was so swift that I doubt that a 2hp OBM would have enabled progress to have been made against it especially when we were exploring a mile or more from the boat. We spent the night back in Derrible Bay at anchor. I had intended to go from there to Iles Chausey (of which more later) but I realised that there was now a huge Spring tide with a tidal range of 11m - without local knowledge this wasn’t the ideal time to visit the islands. Instead we decided that a spell in Jersey would be preferable, leaving the visit to Iles Chausey for the Neap tides in a week’s time. However we remained in Sark that day as the weather was horrible and there seemed to no point is going. It became a bit rolly, especially at HW, but it was a good decision. So next day we went St Helier. It was a bumpy voyage and the last stretch from the Courbière LH to St Helier was a hard slog against the tide. We got there at last and went straight into the marina. We stayed there on the island for three complete days, at first exploring by bus and walking, and then hiring a car for a day. There is a lot to do and see. Our visit coincided with the Battle of Flowers but this seems to be a dwindling attraction and the poor weather kept us away.
Finally we set off to Iles Chausey. It’s a group with one inhabited island and lots of smaller islands nearby (that get to be much bigger islands when the tide goes down!). It lies to the east of the Plateau de Minquieres (the Minkies). The rise and fall of the tides are huge and so deciding where to anchor is important. It’s takes a leap of imagination to realise that even if you anchor in 10 metres at HW you may dry out at LW. There is a Sound through the islands where some trots have been laid and we gratefully moored alongside a similar sized boat. It was ok at Neap tides but it would not have done at Springs. We went ashore on Grande Ile (which is pretty small!) to explore and to exercise. There are about 50 inhabitants, but several hundred trippers that arrive at about 1100 and leave in the evening join them every day. Some of the old houses appear to be sort of Youth Hostels – very basic accommodation. Next day we were forced to move as a very large motor cruiser came alongside us and completely blocked our view. I took the opportunity to pass gingerly through the northern passage from the Sound (not feasible around LW) and then swing around to the west to anchor for the night in a small bay on the south of the island. From Iles Chausey we returned to Cherbourg via the Alderney race, and then on past the immensely tall Barfleur LH to St Vaast la Hougue. We again anchored off but used Buttercup to explore the town and the nearby coastal fort on Ile de Tatihou. Then it was back across the Channel again to the Solent where we cruised around exploring for a few days. At the end of the month Ann had to return home to look after the house and cat, leaving me to sail alone for a month, at the end of which I was to go to London and leave Faustina II for the winter. In practice this didn’t happen. I couldn’t decide what to do but, because I like an aim, I felt I had to GO somewhere. However I first had a weekend with my daughter and her family. It happened then that fresh easterlies set in and so I sailed off to the west and after a couple of days realised that I was on my way back home to NI. The Met office kept threatening big winds several days ahead and so I resolved to get on quickly before they arrived. My main ‘legs’ were an overnighter from Dartmouth to the Dale in Milford Haven (with a two-hour stop-off in Plymouth to have lunch with friends) and then, after a long night’s sleep, another overnighter from Milford Haven to Portaferry. I had intended to stop at Arklow but the wind warnings were becoming dire so I went on to Wicklow. But by then the tide was with me and so I went on to Dun Laoghaire and then straight on to Portaferry. I arrived back on Sun 7 Sep - and the winds never became very strong after all. Inevitably the plan to winter in London has been shelved – it was too far to go all the way back again - but I’m pleased to have Faustina II near home so that I can ‘play’ with her over the winter months! She is ashore on her new trailer in the grounds of the Newtownards Sailing Club just 2½ miles from home. |
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